Goat Bucks
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If you want milk, you'll have breed the does which means baby goats. You may want to use the goats as a way to increase your heard or sell them as a way to supplement your income. You'll want to pay attention to the bloodlines so that you can maximize both your milk production from the offspring as well as your sales income, by doing some research and finding a buck that's the best match for your does. There are instances where people only want freshening does and don't want to keep the offspring, but because this site is about sustainable living and caring for the planet, those circumstances will not be addressed.
Finding the best match for your does
Buck selection
The way to select a buck is to first look at his pedigree and milk production records. Although grades, a goat not of purebred decent, can be a fantastic producer and it's tempting to think you may be able to get the best of both worlds, you'll have greater credibility and get more money for your purebred, registerable offspring - and likely better homes for them since they'll likely be more high valued.
What to look for
Visit local breeder websites and consider visiting a show or two and get a feel for who the breeders are in your area with worthy stock. Talk to the breeders and see what buck's names are repeatedly mentioned and in what context. Look at your does - determine what you like and don't like about them. If you have a doe with poor feet, small or misshapen teats or other faults, you don't want to breed into a line with similar flaws, but rather one that can offset those so the daughters will be improved over their mothers.
Buying versus "renting" a buck
It is certainly possible to purchase your own ideal buck or bucks and you may wish to do so, depending upon the size of your herd, but because a single buck can literally service hundreds of does, you'll want to offset the cost and trouble of buying and keeping a buck year round versus breeding your does to a buck for a fee.If you have more than one breed of doesand you will be registering the offspring, you'll need bucks for each breed. Also, if you want to keep any of your doelings, you'll be breeding the daughters back to the fathers. There are many people who say "line breeding" in goats is perfectly acceptable - just as it's done with many other animals. However, studying breed books and genetics is a time consuming task that is often left to the professional breeders. Also, informal studies have shown mixed results - seen even in twins where one twin is phenomenal and the other suffers from some significant deficiencies. Using the services of a breeder will allow you additional flexibility both in terms of the daughters as well as the high possibility that each of your does will likely suffer from different flaws (not necessarily a bad thing when you're milking as you would get tired of milking your goats all with the same flaw - at least you get some variety) that you'll want to offset and a depending upon your own few bucks to resolve this is not likely to be practical.
Considerations for keeping your own buck
Pros:
1. It will make breeding very simple. When your does are in heat, it'll be an easy walk over for breeding.
2. If you are having problems getting your does into heat, you can put them in with a buck and frequently they' will be willing to breed within 48 hours.
Cons:
What to look at when choosing a buck
Bucklings
One of the first things you'll notice about bucklings is they grow about 20% faster than doelings. They are often bigger at birth when part of a multiple birth and will quickly outpace his sister's growth rate. Although bucklings theoretically aren't supposed to be able to reproduce until 3-4 months, there have been plenty of surprises at the barn with a new buckling that was thought not to be able to perform yet. Upon weaning their buck smell will develop almost immediately. Therefore it's best to separate the bucklings to their own area at about 2 months of age.
Shelter, Fencing and Feeding
The way to select a buck is to first look at his pedigree and milk production records. Although grades, a goat not of purebred decent, can be a fantastic producer and it's tempting to think you may be able to get the best of both worlds, you'll have greater credibility and get more money for your purebred, registerable offspring - and likely better homes for them since they'll likely be more high valued.
What to look for
Visit local breeder websites and consider visiting a show or two and get a feel for who the breeders are in your area with worthy stock. Talk to the breeders and see what buck's names are repeatedly mentioned and in what context. Look at your does - determine what you like and don't like about them. If you have a doe with poor feet, small or misshapen teats or other faults, you don't want to breed into a line with similar flaws, but rather one that can offset those so the daughters will be improved over their mothers.
Buying versus "renting" a buck
It is certainly possible to purchase your own ideal buck or bucks and you may wish to do so, depending upon the size of your herd, but because a single buck can literally service hundreds of does, you'll want to offset the cost and trouble of buying and keeping a buck year round versus breeding your does to a buck for a fee.If you have more than one breed of doesand you will be registering the offspring, you'll need bucks for each breed. Also, if you want to keep any of your doelings, you'll be breeding the daughters back to the fathers. There are many people who say "line breeding" in goats is perfectly acceptable - just as it's done with many other animals. However, studying breed books and genetics is a time consuming task that is often left to the professional breeders. Also, informal studies have shown mixed results - seen even in twins where one twin is phenomenal and the other suffers from some significant deficiencies. Using the services of a breeder will allow you additional flexibility both in terms of the daughters as well as the high possibility that each of your does will likely suffer from different flaws (not necessarily a bad thing when you're milking as you would get tired of milking your goats all with the same flaw - at least you get some variety) that you'll want to offset and a depending upon your own few bucks to resolve this is not likely to be practical.
Considerations for keeping your own buck
Pros:
1. It will make breeding very simple. When your does are in heat, it'll be an easy walk over for breeding.
2. If you are having problems getting your does into heat, you can put them in with a buck and frequently they' will be willing to breed within 48 hours.
Cons:
- A good buck is very expensive. Serious breeders won't sell any other kind.
- Bucks smell, especially during mating season. It's a very strong aroma that eventually permeates everything you own and can even make it unpleasant to be outside with them.
- Bucks must be kept in separate areas from the does or the buck smell will cause the milk to off-flavor. This means additional shelters, dedicated pasture areas and fencing.
- Bucks are powerful animals frequently weighing in at 200 pounds. They and will do everything possible to get to the does to breed. Therefore, all of the structures will need to be much more sturdy and elaborate than that which you used for the does. Also, because of their odor, you'll want to keep them a good distance away from your house and other buildings and shelters you frequent.
- Bucks have slightly different nutritional requirements from does, so you'll need to buy separate hay for them..
- When you have to work with them, it can be quite intimidating. Bucks have also been seen to challenge their owners - a sure sign for a quick trip to a sales venue.
What to look at when choosing a buck
- Pedigree: Start by examining the buck's pedigree. If it's milk that you want, make sure there is milk in that pedigree. A pedigree and milk production records of seveal generations might not be insurance, but they are valuable management tools and much better than having nothing.
- Confirmation: If you have a doe with weaknesses that may affect her productivity and usefulness, you do not want to breed her to a buck who has those same faults appear in his bloodlines. Look for a buck who is strong in those areas to help improve your herd.
Bucklings
One of the first things you'll notice about bucklings is they grow about 20% faster than doelings. They are often bigger at birth when part of a multiple birth and will quickly outpace his sister's growth rate. Although bucklings theoretically aren't supposed to be able to reproduce until 3-4 months, there have been plenty of surprises at the barn with a new buckling that was thought not to be able to perform yet. Upon weaning their buck smell will develop almost immediately. Therefore it's best to separate the bucklings to their own area at about 2 months of age.
Shelter, Fencing and Feeding
- The housing can be extremely basic as long as its strong. A lean-to or 3 sided run-in shed is suitable. However, it must be made of study materials. Cement blocks work well because they can be washed down if needed. Consider allowing about 40 square feet per animal.
- Cattle panels make good fencing, but shorten the post lengths to 6 to 8 feet apart.
- Provide yourself with a way to feed and water the buck without entering the pen.
- If you are keeping multiple bucks you may want to consider allowing for a smaller parlor area where you can allow the selected breeding buck to go in with doe so you can be sure your doe is bred by the preferred buck.
- Same as with the does "runs" are generally preferred to square pens because it gives the goat more distance to roam.
- Bucks are susceptible to kidney stones, so allow them to browse on what you have and supplement with a low calcium hay. Alfalfa is not recommended for bucks.
- Provide your buck with Ammonium Chloride to help maintain urinary tract health.
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