How to Grow Herbs
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Herbs have been used for their culinary and healing properties for many centuries. Cooks love the unique flavors that herbs— fresh or dried—lend to all kinds of food and drink. Herbalists treasure the healing qualities of certain flowers, leaves and roots. Herbal crafters preserve the beauty and fragrance of flowers and leaves in potpourri, wreaths, sachets and dried arrangements. And gardeners value herbs for all their excellent qualities, including their vigor, low maintenance and natural resistance to pests.
When most of us think of herbs, we picture the common kitchen seasonings—basil, rosemary, sage, thyme, and so on. Yet in the broadest sense of the word, an herb is any plant that is considered "useful" in some respect to humans. The leaves, roots, seeds, stems or flowers of an herb might be important as a source of flavoring, medicine, fragrance, dye or some other product. And just as we might consider any aggressive plant a "weed" when it is growing someplace where we don't want it, so an "herb" is any type of plant—annual, perennial, tree, shrub or vine—that has some practical value beyond looking beautiful in the garden.
Curious how herbs heal and make us feel better? Plants, in general, produce chemical compounds as part of their normal metabolic activities. These compounds can be divided into primary metabolites — such as sugars and fats — and secondary metabolites, which are mainly found in herbs. These secondary metabolites protect herbs from insects and disease and tend to have medicinal properties for humansWe all know and love herbs. Chances are that you’ve already used a product today that has an herbal ingredient. Herbs make everything smell, taste and feel better.
So many herbs have a delightful fragrance that it's hard to limit yourself to just a few. Some excellent choices for the scented garden include English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), lemon balm (Melissa officinalis), all kinds of mints, oregano, rosemary, scented geraniums (Pelargonium spp.), costmary (Chrysanthemum balsamita), and dame’s rocket (Hesperis matronalis), whose flowers release a delightful clovelike aroma in the evening. Plant fragrant ground covers such as creeping thyme (Thymus praecox) and Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile), perhaps in gaps between flagstones or other large, flat paving stones set around the area.
When most of us think of herbs, we picture the common kitchen seasonings—basil, rosemary, sage, thyme, and so on. Yet in the broadest sense of the word, an herb is any plant that is considered "useful" in some respect to humans. The leaves, roots, seeds, stems or flowers of an herb might be important as a source of flavoring, medicine, fragrance, dye or some other product. And just as we might consider any aggressive plant a "weed" when it is growing someplace where we don't want it, so an "herb" is any type of plant—annual, perennial, tree, shrub or vine—that has some practical value beyond looking beautiful in the garden.
Curious how herbs heal and make us feel better? Plants, in general, produce chemical compounds as part of their normal metabolic activities. These compounds can be divided into primary metabolites — such as sugars and fats — and secondary metabolites, which are mainly found in herbs. These secondary metabolites protect herbs from insects and disease and tend to have medicinal properties for humansWe all know and love herbs. Chances are that you’ve already used a product today that has an herbal ingredient. Herbs make everything smell, taste and feel better.
So many herbs have a delightful fragrance that it's hard to limit yourself to just a few. Some excellent choices for the scented garden include English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), lemon balm (Melissa officinalis), all kinds of mints, oregano, rosemary, scented geraniums (Pelargonium spp.), costmary (Chrysanthemum balsamita), and dame’s rocket (Hesperis matronalis), whose flowers release a delightful clovelike aroma in the evening. Plant fragrant ground covers such as creeping thyme (Thymus praecox) and Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile), perhaps in gaps between flagstones or other large, flat paving stones set around the area.
Herb Facts
- Herbs are referred to plants that provide seasonings by using their leaves.
- Spices are referred to as the seed part of the plant.
- There are many instances where you will want to harvest both from your plants.
- The flowers of herbs are typically edible as well, so be sure to use them in your recipe.
- Be sure to collect and save some of your herb's seeds for replanting the following season.
- If you're growing herbs for their oils, the best time to harvest in almost all cases is when the plant begins to flower - just between bud and flower stage for most.
- Dandelion is a high-grade salad herb found in the poorest of homes and the finest of restaurants. Blanched or white dandelion stalks are best. These can be obtained by covering the lower parts of the stems with something which keeps out light.
Site and Soil Selection
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Pest and Disease Control
For the most part, herbs are not affected by insect pests. The same essential oils that give herbs their appealing flavor and aroma make the plants unpalatable to bugs. This is why you'll see herbs touted as good companions for all kinds of vegetable crops and other plants. Some herbs, such as pennyroyal and tansy, can even be used as natural insect repellents in the home.
If necessary, handpick any insects you see damaging leaves, or remove any leaves that have become infested. Control aphids, spider mites, or whiteflies, if they appear, by spraying leaves (including the undersides) with an insecticidal soap.
Diseases are also rather rare with herbs, and are most often the result of plants being stressed — either because the plant isn't growing in the kind of conditions it needs (amount of sunlight, water requirements, adequate drainage, etc.), or because the plants are crowded together too closely. In the case of downy or powdery mildew, remove and destroy any infected leaves and try spraying plants with a compost tea.
If necessary, handpick any insects you see damaging leaves, or remove any leaves that have become infested. Control aphids, spider mites, or whiteflies, if they appear, by spraying leaves (including the undersides) with an insecticidal soap.
Diseases are also rather rare with herbs, and are most often the result of plants being stressed — either because the plant isn't growing in the kind of conditions it needs (amount of sunlight, water requirements, adequate drainage, etc.), or because the plants are crowded together too closely. In the case of downy or powdery mildew, remove and destroy any infected leaves and try spraying plants with a compost tea.
Propagating Herbs
Some herbs are easy to start from seed, whereas others take a long time to germinate and grow and usually are either purchased as plants from a nursery or propagated vegetatively from existing plants (by stem cuttings, layering or root division).
Popular herbs that are easy to grow from seed include basil, borage, calendula, chervil, coriander, dill, lemon balm, parsley and sage. Before sowing any herb, whether in flats or directly in the garden, check the seed packet for germination requirements to see how early you'll need to start it and whether it requires any special handling (a period of cold dormancy, or stratification; light or darkness for germination; soil temperature; etc.).
Like other plants, most herb seeds should be planted at a depth of only about twice their thickness: with very small seeds, this means sowing on top of moistened soil in flats and gently pressing them in. If you want to start new herbs from plants that you already have growing in your garden, there are several ways to do it, all of them variations of vegetative propagation.
Root division: For many hardy perennial herbs, root division is the simplest means of propagation. Using a garden fork, dig up the plant's root system and either pull the roots apart by hand (as with chives), or cut the root mass into several pieces and replant them elsewhere in the garden.
The best time to divide plants is in the fall, when they are winding down for the year. If divided and replanted at this time, new plants will establish themselves and get off to a good start the following spring. Placing transplants on a small mound of soil or compost in the bottom of the planting hole helps to prevent settling. Firm down the soil around the plants and water them well after planting to eliminate any large air pockets around the roots. Laying a thick organic mulch around plants in the late fall will help insure against crown heaving, which may otherwise occur as a result of freeze/thaw cycles over the winter.
Herbs that respond well to root division include bee balm, chives, garlic chives, horehound, lovage, marjoram, oregano, pennyroyal, sorrel, tansy, thyme and sweet woodruff.
Cuttings: Stem cuttings of various herbs (hyssop, lavender, mints, oregano, sage, thyme) should be taken during the spring or summer, when plants are healthy and growing vigorously. Rosemary and tarragon tend to root better in the fall, so use them for cuttings at that time and grow them indoors over the winter.
Popular herbs that are easy to grow from seed include basil, borage, calendula, chervil, coriander, dill, lemon balm, parsley and sage. Before sowing any herb, whether in flats or directly in the garden, check the seed packet for germination requirements to see how early you'll need to start it and whether it requires any special handling (a period of cold dormancy, or stratification; light or darkness for germination; soil temperature; etc.).
Like other plants, most herb seeds should be planted at a depth of only about twice their thickness: with very small seeds, this means sowing on top of moistened soil in flats and gently pressing them in. If you want to start new herbs from plants that you already have growing in your garden, there are several ways to do it, all of them variations of vegetative propagation.
Root division: For many hardy perennial herbs, root division is the simplest means of propagation. Using a garden fork, dig up the plant's root system and either pull the roots apart by hand (as with chives), or cut the root mass into several pieces and replant them elsewhere in the garden.
The best time to divide plants is in the fall, when they are winding down for the year. If divided and replanted at this time, new plants will establish themselves and get off to a good start the following spring. Placing transplants on a small mound of soil or compost in the bottom of the planting hole helps to prevent settling. Firm down the soil around the plants and water them well after planting to eliminate any large air pockets around the roots. Laying a thick organic mulch around plants in the late fall will help insure against crown heaving, which may otherwise occur as a result of freeze/thaw cycles over the winter.
Herbs that respond well to root division include bee balm, chives, garlic chives, horehound, lovage, marjoram, oregano, pennyroyal, sorrel, tansy, thyme and sweet woodruff.
Cuttings: Stem cuttings of various herbs (hyssop, lavender, mints, oregano, sage, thyme) should be taken during the spring or summer, when plants are healthy and growing vigorously. Rosemary and tarragon tend to root better in the fall, so use them for cuttings at that time and grow them indoors over the winter.
- Select stem segments that are tender (not woody) and about three to six inches long, with at least five leaves along the stem. Make an angled cut, just above an outward-facing leaf node.
- Remove the lower leaves on the stem, dip the cut end in rooting hormone powder, and plant it deeply in a pot containing a soilless seed-starting medium mixed with moistened vermiculite or perlite.
- Cover the cuttings loosely with a plastic bag to create humid conditions and place them in a cool (70 degrees F) location away from direct sunlight.
- Monitor the plants and water if needed, or remove the plastic bag if there seems to be too much moisture. After a few weeks, start checking for new leaf growth, which indicates that the plants are rooting well. Repot the plants into larger containers filled with regular potting soil and gradually expose the plants to full light.
- Select a stem that is long and trailing and that you can bend down easily to touch the ground.
- Make a slanted cut halfway through the stem (or, with slender stems, scrape the outer surface). Place the cut part of the stem in a shallow depression just below the soil surface, holding down the stem on either side with lengths of metal wire (unbent paper clips are good for this). Cover the cut part of the stem with a little soil, and water well.
- After six to eight weeks, brush away the soil and check to see whether the stem has begun to form a new root system. If it has, cut the stem that connects the new plant to the mother plant and transplant the new plant elsewhere in the garden.
Growing Herbs in Containers
Growing herbs in containers works well for small spaces or with limited growing area, for potential easier access from your kitchen, to more easily improve soils that what you may have immediately have acces to in your ground and can be used to better protect tender perennials like rosemary and flowering sages all year long, bringing the pots indoors as days shorten and temperatures dip in the fall. Growing in containers gives you the flexibility to move plants around outside and display them to best effect.
The soil you use in containers should be well-drained; regular potting soil amended with perlite and vermiculite will suit most plants. As with other plants in containers, herbs require regular watering and fertilization throughout the growing season. Plants like rosemary can tolerate fairly dry soil between waterings, but other herbs with broader leaves need more attention to watering when grown in pots. Adding finished compost or peat moss to the soil mix when you are potting plants will help the soil retain moisture.
During the outdoor growing season most potted herbs can be fertilized as frequently as once a week. Use a liquid fish or seaweed emulsion or a complete liquid fertilizer. Once you bring plants inside for the winter, they require much less fertilization; once or twice a month is sufficient. Especially after plants are inside, it's important to practice "flush watering" regularly; in other words, keep adding liquid until you see water running out of the bottom hole in the pot and into the tray beneath. This prevents fertilizer salts from building up in the soil.
Herb plants that can live for several years in pots include rosemary, lemon verbena, bay laurel and scented geraniums. Some long-lived herbs can be pruned and trained into interesting topiary shapes or ball-headed "standards," which makes them valuable as formal accents on a patio, entrance, or walkway during the summer, and as houseplants during the cooler months of the year. Check plants periodically to see whether they need to be repotted into a larger container.
During the winter, the best place for herbs is inside the house next to a cool, sunny window, where they can get about three or four hours of direct sunlight every day. Conditions inside most houses during the winter months are dry, so mist plants or place them in trays on top of watered pebbles to increase the humidity level.
Plants that you bring inside for the winter invariably experience some insect problems. This is frequently due to the stress of being moved into an indoor environment and new growing conditions. The best way to minimize this stress is to dig and pot up plants at least a couple of weeks before the first frost, then acclimate them gradually to indoor conditions, perhaps by moving them to a porch or breezeway (a reverse process to the hardening-off that you do in the spring with plants started indoors). Watch the plants closely for the first few weeks inside, and pamper them by providing plenty of water and misting them.
Even with care, some herbs may become infested with insects. If you shake a plant and see a cloud of whiteflies, it's a good idea to set the plant in the shower briefly and wash the insects off the leaves. Then spray the plant with an insecticidal soap or hot pepper wax. Follow label instructions and repeat treatments as needed. Scale and mealybugs can be controlled with an alcohol-soaked swab.
The soil you use in containers should be well-drained; regular potting soil amended with perlite and vermiculite will suit most plants. As with other plants in containers, herbs require regular watering and fertilization throughout the growing season. Plants like rosemary can tolerate fairly dry soil between waterings, but other herbs with broader leaves need more attention to watering when grown in pots. Adding finished compost or peat moss to the soil mix when you are potting plants will help the soil retain moisture.
During the outdoor growing season most potted herbs can be fertilized as frequently as once a week. Use a liquid fish or seaweed emulsion or a complete liquid fertilizer. Once you bring plants inside for the winter, they require much less fertilization; once or twice a month is sufficient. Especially after plants are inside, it's important to practice "flush watering" regularly; in other words, keep adding liquid until you see water running out of the bottom hole in the pot and into the tray beneath. This prevents fertilizer salts from building up in the soil.
Herb plants that can live for several years in pots include rosemary, lemon verbena, bay laurel and scented geraniums. Some long-lived herbs can be pruned and trained into interesting topiary shapes or ball-headed "standards," which makes them valuable as formal accents on a patio, entrance, or walkway during the summer, and as houseplants during the cooler months of the year. Check plants periodically to see whether they need to be repotted into a larger container.
During the winter, the best place for herbs is inside the house next to a cool, sunny window, where they can get about three or four hours of direct sunlight every day. Conditions inside most houses during the winter months are dry, so mist plants or place them in trays on top of watered pebbles to increase the humidity level.
Plants that you bring inside for the winter invariably experience some insect problems. This is frequently due to the stress of being moved into an indoor environment and new growing conditions. The best way to minimize this stress is to dig and pot up plants at least a couple of weeks before the first frost, then acclimate them gradually to indoor conditions, perhaps by moving them to a porch or breezeway (a reverse process to the hardening-off that you do in the spring with plants started indoors). Watch the plants closely for the first few weeks inside, and pamper them by providing plenty of water and misting them.
Even with care, some herbs may become infested with insects. If you shake a plant and see a cloud of whiteflies, it's a good idea to set the plant in the shower briefly and wash the insects off the leaves. Then spray the plant with an insecticidal soap or hot pepper wax. Follow label instructions and repeat treatments as needed. Scale and mealybugs can be controlled with an alcohol-soaked swab.
The uses for herbs, and the number of products and recipes that can be made with them, are practically endless, including herbal recipes, crafts, gifts and other items. One topic of interest to gardeners, cooks, and crafters alike is when and how to harvest herbs, and how best to preserve them so that they retain as much of their flavor and fragrance as possible.
In almost all cases, the best time to harvest herbs is when the plants are forming buds, but before they have flowered. At this time, the plant's leaves contain the highest concentration of essential oils. A few exceptions include lavender, which is valued mostly for its flower buds, and herbs like calendula and chamomile, which are harvested for their flowers.
In almost all cases, the best time to harvest herbs is when the plants are forming buds, but before they have flowered. At this time, the plant's leaves contain the highest concentration of essential oils. A few exceptions include lavender, which is valued mostly for its flower buds, and herbs like calendula and chamomile, which are harvested for their flowers.
Harvesting and Preserving Herbs
In almost all cases, the best time to harvest herbs is when the plants are forming buds, but before they have flowered. At this time, the plant's leaves contain the highest concentration of essential oils. Exceptions include lavender, which is valued mostly for its flower buds, and calendula and chamomile, which are harvested for their flowers.
The easiest and most common method of drying herbs is to cut back whole stems of plants and bunch a dozen or so together, securing them with a rubber band at the end. Then hang the bunches upside down from rails, hooks, rafters or even a clothing line to air-dry in a warm, dry place with minimal light. Leaves should be crisp and dry in seven to ten days, at which time you can take down the bunches and strip the leaves from the stems over a newspaper or large tray, discarding any debris or leaves that look discolored. Pour the herb leaves into tightly sealed jars or other containers, label them, and store them in a cool, dark place.
Not all herbs will air-dry successfully in this way. Basil, for instance, tends to turn brown and lose a lot of its pizzazz when hung up in bunches. An alternative to bunch drying is to place herbs on a drying rack in a just-warm oven, or in a dehydrator, which will dry leaves more quickly than simply hanging them up.
Even faster is to spread herbs between paper towels in a single layer and place them in a microwave oven for approximately two minutes, then taking them out and checking them. If the leaves aren’t crisp-dry put them back in the microwave for additional 30-second intervals until they are done. Microwaves and leaf thickness may vary, so this method requires some experimentation.
An alternative to drying some herbs such as parsley, chervil, and basil for use as seasoning is to place two cups of fresh herbs in a blender with one cup of water or ¼ cup of olive oil and then process them. Pour the resulting slurry into ice-cube trays or a plastic bag and freeze. These herbs they can be taken out as needed and used as seasonings in soups, stews and other recipes.
The easiest and most common method of drying herbs is to cut back whole stems of plants and bunch a dozen or so together, securing them with a rubber band at the end. Then hang the bunches upside down from rails, hooks, rafters or even a clothing line to air-dry in a warm, dry place with minimal light. Leaves should be crisp and dry in seven to ten days, at which time you can take down the bunches and strip the leaves from the stems over a newspaper or large tray, discarding any debris or leaves that look discolored. Pour the herb leaves into tightly sealed jars or other containers, label them, and store them in a cool, dark place.
Not all herbs will air-dry successfully in this way. Basil, for instance, tends to turn brown and lose a lot of its pizzazz when hung up in bunches. An alternative to bunch drying is to place herbs on a drying rack in a just-warm oven, or in a dehydrator, which will dry leaves more quickly than simply hanging them up.
Even faster is to spread herbs between paper towels in a single layer and place them in a microwave oven for approximately two minutes, then taking them out and checking them. If the leaves aren’t crisp-dry put them back in the microwave for additional 30-second intervals until they are done. Microwaves and leaf thickness may vary, so this method requires some experimentation.
An alternative to drying some herbs such as parsley, chervil, and basil for use as seasoning is to place two cups of fresh herbs in a blender with one cup of water or ¼ cup of olive oil and then process them. Pour the resulting slurry into ice-cube trays or a plastic bag and freeze. These herbs they can be taken out as needed and used as seasonings in soups, stews and other recipes.
Basic Culinary Herb List
BasilBasil likes warm nights, sunny areas and a fair amount of water. Be sure to deadhead your basil when it tries to bolt if you want to keep the leaves. Towards the end of the season, allow at least one plant to bolt and collect the seeds for next year's plantings.
There are many different varieties of basil, but the most familiar have flavors of licorice and cloves. Some varieties like Thai, may be more peppery and minty in flavor. Uses: Best raw or cooked very briefly. Can be used raw, torn or chopped, but chopping will turn edges black. Apply to pizzas after grilling or baking. The small white flowers are edible and can be used for decoration. |
ChivesIn warm climates chives prefer a bit of shade and plenty of water.
There are a number of different types of chives available with different flavors with an undertone of milk onion flavor. Garlic chives have wider and flatter leaves and a more garlicky taste. Try a few different varieties to see what you enjoy best. Uses: Best raw or cooked briefly. Use in salads, cheese spreads, chevres and compound butters. |
Cilantro (coriander, Mexican parsley)Cilantro likes colder weather and once the days get consistently into the upper 70's, it will bolt. Pick the seeds, which are coriander, to use in your recipes and save some for next year's planting.
Parsley-like in appearance, but smaller with lacy leaves. Uses: Add leaves to Mexican, Thai, Vietnamese and Indian recipes in soups, salads, and sandwiches. Roots are used in stews and other long-cooked dishes. |
Dill (dill weed)Dill likes cooler weather and in warmer climates will often bolt and die out by mid- to late June. Growing it under shade cloths in hot climates will help extend its growing cycle. Keep this in mind if you are planning to can pickles. Also, you'll want to be sure to harvest some of the dill and dry it for future use, although fresh is far superior to dried. Both the leaves and the flowers can be used fresh or dried and the seeds harvested for use in recipes calling for dill seed.
Uses: Excellent in almost any dish comprised of dairy. Use on eggs and in egg salads, on cucumbers, with tomatoes, salmon, in yogurt dips, in cheveres, mixed into mustard or in green salads. |
LavenderNarrow gray-green leaves with beautiful long purple or pink flower spikes, lavender is a garden favorite. The scent and flavor is minty and floral.
There are many different varieties of lavender and do some research to determine which lavender is best suited not only for your zone, but specific area. Lavender likes full sun, but in hot areas requires consistent watering. Many varieties require cooler night temperatures similar to the Mediterranean climate. It can be planted as a perennial in moderate climates; however, parts of the plant will die off as it matures, but prune these back in the early spring and the plant will regrow. |
Lemon grassThis tropical grass has a stiff, narrow stalk that could be mistaken for a scallion or Johnson grass. It likes bright, indirect light and plenty of water. Grow in pots or in the ground, but you'll need to dig it up and bring it inside in the fall. . Strong citrus flavor and aroma. This herb is easily dried.
Uses: Cut off the woody tops and peel off tough outer layers, mince or pound the pieces to release their flavor and aroma. Soak dried lemongrass in hot water for at least 30 minutes before using. |
Lime leaves (Kaffir lime)These small tropical trees are not really lime trees at all. They like moderate temperatures with minimal fluctuations and bright, indirect light. Tough, shiny green leaves with spiney thorns. The leaves have a floral and limey flavor.
Uses: Typically used in Southeast Asian dishes of all types. Mince or toss in the whole leaves during cooking. |
MintThere are many species of mint, and all can be invasive, so remember this when planting your garden. Mints grow very fast underground, but present no problem if planted in pots. If mint is planted in a bed (of any kind of media) the roots will fill the entire bed. This may sound like a good idea except for one thing: when the bed gets full the quality of the plants begins to deteriorate.
Spearmint has bright green wrinkled leaves (the one shown to the right) and peppermint and other varieties have smooth leaves. Containers and boxes work well to help keep them where you want them. Mint likes full sun, but in hot areas, a 1/2 day of sun is plenty. It needs a fair amount of water, well drained soil and will grow best if you consistently cut off the tops, causing it to spread from its roots. It can be grown from runners or seed. Uses: Chop or crush fresh leaves to release their flavor. Wonderful in herbal teas and cocktails, mint is also used in many vegetable and fruit dishes (try mango) and perfect in yogurt-based sauces, chutneys and many Southeast Asian dishes. |
OreganoThis easy growing, sun loving, herb needs a little less water than some of the others. It can spread by either runners or seed. The one at the right is flowering. Square stems with dark green, fuzzy, spade-shaped leaves. It is stronger and spicier than marjoram.
Uses: A workhorse in the kitchen, the herb can be used either fresh or dried as a garnish in small amounts. Use with tomatoes and in tomato sauces, cheeses, pizza, vegetables, beans and vinaigrettes. |
ParsleyParsley is often seen in curly and flat leafed (Italian) varieties with the flat leaf varieties typically having more flavor. Parsley is very hardy and will grow like made in its first season, but it is negligent to spread or reseed, so be careful to plan for this for next year's garden.
Uses: Parsley is used in just about everything from soups to salads to main entrees to an aesthetic adder to a serving plate. Use in vinaigrettes, sauces, vegetables, eggs, and pasta. |
RosesAn important herb in the middle east, roses are rising in significance and use as an herb. All roses are edible, but some taste better than others. Those that smell better will typically taste better. Many tea roses and some endless-blooming roses that have almost no fragrance also have no flavor. Pink, yellow and sometimes white roses will typically have more flavor than red roses.
It is best to eat roses you grow yourself. Heirloom roses are typically the hardiest and easiest to grow. Eat only roses that have not had insecticide, or fungicides of any type applied - either by spraying or as an additive in the growing compound and never eat roses purchased fro a store. Use ideas: infuse in honey by pulses the rose petals in a food processor until well chopped, empty into a dish and mix in honey; use in salad dressings, in teas, and soups. |
RosemaryTypically purchased a a small shrub that quicker grows into a larger shrub the females will typically flower and males will not. It loves full, intense sun and a moderate amount of water. If the leaves begin to look "skinny", give it some water. Grayish green needs reside on woody branches, with crisp piney aroma and flavor. Once you get this shrub growing, you may even be able to spare a few sprigs on occasion to bring its wonderful aroma into your home.
Uses: Words wonderfully with beans and roasted meats, most vegetables, pasta, breads and many egg dishes. |
SageSoft, woolly , oval grayish green or multicolored leaves, this plant makes an excellent addition to an edible garden. It is highly aromatic as well as beautiful. It likes regular water,but not much water and full sun. it will die back after freezes, but typically returns the next year.
Sharply flavored and slightly bitter, the fresh leaves are best, dried are stronger and somewhat mustier. Uses: Use fresh leaves whole or chopped although some chefs consider chopped leaves to be a bit harsh on the palate, When using in dishes such as eggplant, you may prefer to keep the leaves intact and remove after cooking. An important herb in Italy, use sage in beans, stuffings, bread, biscuts and pastas. |
TarragonTarragon likes a bit of shade in the heat of summer and needs a fair amount of water. Narrow, delicate, lance-like leaves that are bright to dark green. Tarragon has a strong flavor and aroma with a licorice-like flavor. French tarragon doesn't have seeds; it has to be propagated from cuttings.
Uses: Use sparingly. Unlike many other herbs, fresh whole or chipped leaves can be cooked early-on in the recipe. Good wiht seafood chicken or eggs. |
ThymeThyme grows like a small, clumpy shrub, that likes a lot of light and fairly dry conditions. In mild climates without too much rain you can intersperse it in pathways. Thyme can be grown from seed, but it's not easy. Starting with a small purchased plant may be your best bet.
Uses: Thyme is often used in long-simmering or braising recipes. Use fresh leaves and tips sparingly as a garnish.
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