Goat Immunizations and Worming
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Immunizations
Many backyard farmers refer to immunize as little as possible in order to keep their food products as free as possible from unnatural additives. However, there are several vaccinations that should be considered based upon your geographic location and risk to your animals. Consult your local vet to learn which vaccinations are recommended for your area.
The four basic vaccinations you will want to ask about are:
The four basic vaccinations you will want to ask about are:
- Tetanus
- White-muscle disease
- Enterotoxemia
- Pasteurellosis
Internal parasites (worms) and deworming
Parasites are always present in every goat herd, but they need to be controlled as they are a disease as infected goats can become ill and even die. Internal parasites infect the gastrointestinal tract, liver, lungs, blood system, lymphatic system and skin.
Goats ingest these parasites while they are on pasture or even in the confines of the barn. The adult worm is living in the host’s abomasum, one of the parts of the stomach, and lays eggs in large numbers that are then passed in the manure. At this point, the eggs need to develop and hatch. This could take from five days to several months.
These larvae will develop in warm and wet conditions, so in many places parasitism is generally more of a problem in the spring when conditions are ideal, but problems appear during other times of the year when the weather permits. Prior to these larvae becoming mature they are ineffective. However, once they hatch they need to be ingested by the goat to complete the life cycle.
Because the larvae are not very mobile, they need rain to splash them onto blades of grass in the pasture. If your goats are forced to graze the pasture close this will usually increase the number of larvae ingested. It is important to understand the life cycle times of the parasites to develop a program to best control them, but again, this is where your veterinarian's guidance will be invaluable.
Goats ingest these parasites while they are on pasture or even in the confines of the barn. The adult worm is living in the host’s abomasum, one of the parts of the stomach, and lays eggs in large numbers that are then passed in the manure. At this point, the eggs need to develop and hatch. This could take from five days to several months.
These larvae will develop in warm and wet conditions, so in many places parasitism is generally more of a problem in the spring when conditions are ideal, but problems appear during other times of the year when the weather permits. Prior to these larvae becoming mature they are ineffective. However, once they hatch they need to be ingested by the goat to complete the life cycle.
Because the larvae are not very mobile, they need rain to splash them onto blades of grass in the pasture. If your goats are forced to graze the pasture close this will usually increase the number of larvae ingested. It is important to understand the life cycle times of the parasites to develop a program to best control them, but again, this is where your veterinarian's guidance will be invaluable.
Signs of parasites
Can include
The only sure way to determine if you have parasites and what kind involve fecal testing. This is typically performed by a veterinarian. The recommended practice is to have the exam performed twice a year for the first year and then work with your veterinarian for future schedules, based upon the findings. The veterinarian will then help you determine what kind of parasites you have and the best veterinary product to use to address those parasites.
- Lethargy
- Diarrhea
- "Clumpy" stools
- Lose weight or just maintain their weight
- Anemia (signs include the sclera of the eye being white instead of pink or red, gums that are pale pink or gray)
The only sure way to determine if you have parasites and what kind involve fecal testing. This is typically performed by a veterinarian. The recommended practice is to have the exam performed twice a year for the first year and then work with your veterinarian for future schedules, based upon the findings. The veterinarian will then help you determine what kind of parasites you have and the best veterinary product to use to address those parasites.
Main parasites that invade goats in the United States
- Bladder worms
- Haemonchus contortus (barberpole worm)
- Ostertagia (round worms including stomach worm, Cooper’s worm, wire worm, hookworm, threadworm, whipworm, and nodular worm)
- Trichostrongylus (lung worms)
- Tapeworms
- Coccidiosis
- Parelaphostrongylus tenuis (meningeal or brain worm)
Parasite Control Programs
Because of the limited market potential for drug manufacturers and the expense of testing,there are a limited number of officially approved medical products for goat's so it's important to work with your veterinarian to get the most current information. Some goat herd owners have turned to holistic measures such as diatomaceous earth to help control worms; however, there is no evidence to date to support this is effective.
Pasture management is a key element. If you manage your pastures and utilize good management practices you will not have a large infestation of larvae.
Grazing management involves:
Pasture management is a key element. If you manage your pastures and utilize good management practices you will not have a large infestation of larvae.
Grazing management involves:
- Moving goats between several pasture areas
- Maintaining forage in the pastures in a vegetative or growing condition
- Moving animals out of one pasture when it has been grazed down to an appropriate level.
As a rule, any and all newcomers to your herd arriving from another herd should be dewormed when they first arrive.
Bloat
Description:
Whenever anything interferes with this release of gas or if the digestion of the proteins occurs too rapidly you have the condition known as bloat. Technically, bloat is an excessive accumulation of gas in the rumen and reticulum resulting in distention. Bloat is caused by gas trapped in numerous tiny bubbles, making it impossible to burp. Goats are especially susceptible to bloat when they first go out on green pastures or if they consume too much sweet feed. Bloat is fairly easy to identify as goat's bellies literally become bloated. It's important to note the difference between a goat that has simply just finished feeding and has a full stomach versus one that is distended.
Bloat is easily recognized. The upper abdomen will stick out on both sides and up a little on the left side. This can lead to a gradation of difficulties ranging from mild discomfort to a critical life-endangering emergency. Additional signs can include: shivering, grinding of teeth, salivation, shortness of breath, grunting, kicking at the abdomen, breathing through the mouth, protrusion of the tongue and head held forward. Bloat can range from light expansion and the goat is still eating and moving to one in which the goat which is tightly swollen across her abdomen, prostrate and near death.
Prevention:
The best cure for bloat is to prevent it in the first place. Feed dry hay before allowing livestock to go out on green, lush pastures such as rye, winter grass, and clovers. Monitor and allocate the amount of time spent on lush pastures when animals are first turned out. A good rule of thumb is to start with 30 minutes per day and gradually increase per day in 30 minute increments. Do not feed large quantities of succulents, such as green cornstalks or grass clippings, as supplements if the animals aren't accustomed to them.
Treatment:
If bloat does occur, there is a range of treatments available depending upon the level of severity.
There are two different types of bloat.
1. Free gas bloat is where gas floats on the top of the rumen contents like the air at the top of a water tank. If you can open some form of passageway to the outside atmosphere, the internal pressure will cause the gas to escape. Massaging the goats belly and walking her around is often enough to get her started burping in mild cases of bloat. If that doesn't work, then administer the oil as described in #2, preferably with a stomach tube.
2. The more complex type is known as frothy or "legume" bloat wherein the gas is totally mixed in with rumen contents in a way that resembles whipped gelatin. In order to separate the gas from the rest of the mess you have to introduce something that will do this. The most common substance is one cup of vegetable or peanut oil. If the goat is standing and capable of swallowing without difficulty, this can be administered with a large syringe or drenching gun. If not, it can fed through a stomach tube. A handful of bicarbonate soda will help.
In a goat, it is not possible to insert a tube large enough to allow for the release of frothy bloat. Move the tube around a little to see if you can cause the release of any gas. If no gas escapes, then you probably have frothy bloat. The proper dose for a 130 lb doe is 6 to 8 oz. There are also a number of pharmaceutical preparations for the treatment of bloat, the most popular of these being Therabloat®. Follow label directions for mixture and dosage information. Improvement should be noted within a few minutes.
In extreme cases, you will have to take the goat to the vet, or in the event of lack of time, you may have to relieve the gas by making a physical opening. What happens in this instance is an incision is made at the peak of the distended flank, midway between the last rib and the point fo the hip and then holding the wound open with a tube, straw, or preferably a tocar. At this point you should hear the gas escaping. Then immediately take your goat to the vet to have the incision stitched up.
Whenever anything interferes with this release of gas or if the digestion of the proteins occurs too rapidly you have the condition known as bloat. Technically, bloat is an excessive accumulation of gas in the rumen and reticulum resulting in distention. Bloat is caused by gas trapped in numerous tiny bubbles, making it impossible to burp. Goats are especially susceptible to bloat when they first go out on green pastures or if they consume too much sweet feed. Bloat is fairly easy to identify as goat's bellies literally become bloated. It's important to note the difference between a goat that has simply just finished feeding and has a full stomach versus one that is distended.
Bloat is easily recognized. The upper abdomen will stick out on both sides and up a little on the left side. This can lead to a gradation of difficulties ranging from mild discomfort to a critical life-endangering emergency. Additional signs can include: shivering, grinding of teeth, salivation, shortness of breath, grunting, kicking at the abdomen, breathing through the mouth, protrusion of the tongue and head held forward. Bloat can range from light expansion and the goat is still eating and moving to one in which the goat which is tightly swollen across her abdomen, prostrate and near death.
Prevention:
The best cure for bloat is to prevent it in the first place. Feed dry hay before allowing livestock to go out on green, lush pastures such as rye, winter grass, and clovers. Monitor and allocate the amount of time spent on lush pastures when animals are first turned out. A good rule of thumb is to start with 30 minutes per day and gradually increase per day in 30 minute increments. Do not feed large quantities of succulents, such as green cornstalks or grass clippings, as supplements if the animals aren't accustomed to them.
Treatment:
If bloat does occur, there is a range of treatments available depending upon the level of severity.
There are two different types of bloat.
1. Free gas bloat is where gas floats on the top of the rumen contents like the air at the top of a water tank. If you can open some form of passageway to the outside atmosphere, the internal pressure will cause the gas to escape. Massaging the goats belly and walking her around is often enough to get her started burping in mild cases of bloat. If that doesn't work, then administer the oil as described in #2, preferably with a stomach tube.
2. The more complex type is known as frothy or "legume" bloat wherein the gas is totally mixed in with rumen contents in a way that resembles whipped gelatin. In order to separate the gas from the rest of the mess you have to introduce something that will do this. The most common substance is one cup of vegetable or peanut oil. If the goat is standing and capable of swallowing without difficulty, this can be administered with a large syringe or drenching gun. If not, it can fed through a stomach tube. A handful of bicarbonate soda will help.
In a goat, it is not possible to insert a tube large enough to allow for the release of frothy bloat. Move the tube around a little to see if you can cause the release of any gas. If no gas escapes, then you probably have frothy bloat. The proper dose for a 130 lb doe is 6 to 8 oz. There are also a number of pharmaceutical preparations for the treatment of bloat, the most popular of these being Therabloat®. Follow label directions for mixture and dosage information. Improvement should be noted within a few minutes.
In extreme cases, you will have to take the goat to the vet, or in the event of lack of time, you may have to relieve the gas by making a physical opening. What happens in this instance is an incision is made at the peak of the distended flank, midway between the last rib and the point fo the hip and then holding the wound open with a tube, straw, or preferably a tocar. At this point you should hear the gas escaping. Then immediately take your goat to the vet to have the incision stitched up.
How to use a stomach tube
You can purchase stomach tubes specifically sized for goats at goat supply stores or the clear tubing that is sold in beer and wine-making supply stores also works well. The primary concern is to select a tube large enough to allow for the passage of the fluid but not so large as to cause the collapse of the trachea.
If, as the tube is being inserted, you notice that the animal is having trouble breathing, then use a smaller tube. Initially there may be a brief change in respiration because of anxiety, so wait a few moments to better determine the root cause of the breathing problem. After the tube is in place, make sure there are no breathing sounds in order to confirm that you have not placed the tube in the lungs. Wait a couple of minutes for the animal to relax, then slowly pour the liquid or medication into the tube. Using a syringe without a plunger often works well. After the total amount of the liquid has run down the tube, wait a couple of minutes to give the full length of the tube time to empty. Do not pull the tube out while there is still liquid in it because it will cause some of the liquid to drip into the lungs. Withdraw the tube rapidly.
If, as the tube is being inserted, you notice that the animal is having trouble breathing, then use a smaller tube. Initially there may be a brief change in respiration because of anxiety, so wait a few moments to better determine the root cause of the breathing problem. After the tube is in place, make sure there are no breathing sounds in order to confirm that you have not placed the tube in the lungs. Wait a couple of minutes for the animal to relax, then slowly pour the liquid or medication into the tube. Using a syringe without a plunger often works well. After the total amount of the liquid has run down the tube, wait a couple of minutes to give the full length of the tube time to empty. Do not pull the tube out while there is still liquid in it because it will cause some of the liquid to drip into the lungs. Withdraw the tube rapidly.
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